Bratislava

We decided to utilise the Easter break this year and use our 4 day weekend for a dual centred break in Vienna and Bratislava.

Flying into Vienna airport, we headed straight for an OBB train help desk where we picked up tickets to Vienna Hauptbahnhof then a next day return to Bratislava central for just 20 Euros each. The hour long train journey between the two cities gave us time to review our research on good places to eat for my vegan companion.

All that research was slightly scuppered initially as we turned up to our hotel and found we still had an hour before we could check in. At that point, shattered from our early morning flight and with no will to head out before a shower, we decided to have lunch in the hotel bar. We were pleasantly surprised; although the menu was limited from Rhian’s perspective, there were a couple of pasta dishes that could be made vegan if you asked for no cheese. We both had a tomato pasta which was extremely flavoursome and a good portion to silence our grumbling stomachs. Despite that, the price was reasonable, we paid 6 Euros a piece for food, though beer was more expensive than the average price for the city. However, it was good to see a handy list of allergens information on the menu, something we would come to see tends to be the norm in Bratislava.

We were staying at the Austria Trend Hotel which was centrally located being a five minute walk from the old town. When we finally checked in, the room was a fair size and had a nice view to the east of the city. The hotel was modern and has great facilities such as the aforementioned restaurant and bar as well as gym facilities.

We set off immediately to explore the city as we were only staying for around 24 hours. We headed through Michael’s gate into the old town where we took a wander past the range of churches, gift shops and unorthodox statues.

We dropped into Venturska Klubovna for a swift pint or two of their own beer before heading to Refresh on Venturska street for some food. We recognised the restaurant having seen it recommended on HappyCow.net and the sign outside read “Vegan? Vegetarian?  Meat lover? Here you can all eat together!” so we knew we must be in the right place. Walking in we were struck with the trendy decor and friendly ambiance. Sitting down to read the menu it was good to see a list of allergens making it easy to navigate the menu and find a dish that catered to all requirements. I had a beef burger which tasted incredible, whilst Rhian opted for the vegan burger which was similarly fantastic. They also sold a range of vegan variations on local dishes which was good to see. Even more exciting for Rhian was the vegan chocolate mousse she had for dessert. Having been allowed a taste for myself I would have to say it is a must try for vegans and non-vegans alike. The night couldn’t even be spoiled by a short power outage in the restaurant; clearly someone forgot to top up the electric meter.

Wandering through the maze of old town streets looking for a place to drink we stumbled across a bar called Cierny Pes. Intrigued by the small, ancient looking door we headed into the low-ceilinged basement pub, ordering a beer and a wine. We were a little surprised when the wine turned up with a glass of water, that was until Rhian took a sip and discovered that it was clearly to take away the awful aftertaste. We decided the bar was definitely an authentic experience of Bratislava but one we both agreed we could have lived without.

Feeling slightly queasy, we headed back to the hotel via Bratislavsky Mestiansky Pivovar craft brewery on Drevena street. Set over three floors which were packed with revellers, the bar sold its own brand of beers. Whilst I would say it’s worth popping in for a drink, don’t expect to find a range of modern style IPAs, this seemed to be strictly lager and the odd dark beer. Additionally, I could not recommend for vegans, the menu was distinctly carnivorous and the kind of place that would I would imagine deems chicken as a vegetable (just my opinion!).

The next day we found ourselves on Venturska street yet again and this time stopped in the inviting looking ‘Enjoy Coffee’, attracted by the clean white interior and light appearance. We were not disappointed. There was a wide range of veggie and vegan options including create-your-own paninis, various non-dairy milks for hot drinks and a selection of cakes. We both opted for an unhealthy breakfast of cakes and hot chocolate which we both enjoyed immensely. The price was reasonable too but it is worth noting that they did require payment in cash. Well worth a visit (and good to see an allergens list yet again).

A quick walk up to the castle to soak in the stunning views and architecture followed by a swift pint for 1.10 Euros in Zamoka on the way back down (worth it for price alone. The bar was actually small, uninspiring and frequented solely by rowdy backpackers) and it was time to leave this beautiful city.

Heading back to the train station we reflected upon how much we love Bratislava. Each building in the old town is a sight to behold with its gothic feel, yet this blends seamlessly with the modern bars, restaurants and shops that can be found behind the aged façades. Perfect for a reasonably priced city break with a much wider range of vegetarian and vegan food than you would think. Two thumbs up from us!