With a couple of spare days of leave to use up before April, we decided a little trip to the sun was in order. As such, we booked a four night stay in Malta – this would be my 50th country (41 for Rhian, catching up!).
Also in search of some warm weather, Rhian’s parents (Gary and Ailsa) decided to tag along so we made sure to do some research in advance to find good restaurants to cater to all our tastes.
We flew in on the Wednesday morning flight from Birmingham airport with Ryanair. Upon landing we decided to hire a car so we could explore the island. We did this through Meli car hire at the counter in the arrivals hall at a cost of 20 Euros a day. Well worth it for an easy way to explore some of the more rural sights.
We arrived at the Marina Beach Corinthia hotel in the Paceville area. The hotel itself was in a great setting perched right on the water’s edge. The facilities were fantastic and include a gym and spa as well as several pools and a range of restaurants.
We had a little time to wait before checking in so decided to grab some lunch in the cafe in reception. When Rhian inquired about vegan food the friendly staff were more than happy to cater for her and made up a mix of roasted vegetables on traditional Maltese bread. Ailsa joined her in this choice whilst Gary and I had burgers. All meals were good on quality and portion size; a decent option to satisfy your stomach on arrival.
By the time lunch was finished we were ready for check in. The rooms were extremely spacious and had balconies overlooking the delightful St George’s bay.
After an afternoon exploring the surrounding Paceville area and getting our bearings, we headed through the lively pub-lined streets to Truffle & Truffle on Dragonara Road which we had been recommended to us by several people on the Vegan Malta Facebook group. We were surprised then to find it completely empty when we turned up. We decided to give it a go regardless which turned out to be a great decision.
Despite the lack of fellow diners, there was no awkward atmosphere as the staff were attentive but not overbearing. Having said that, they showered us with extras including an amuse bouche and a lychee and coconut palette cleanser (not vegan unfortunately though!). In addition, when Rhian said she was vegan they were more than happy to discuss the menu and see if there was anything extra they could provide. In the end, Rhian had a vegetable tart while I went for the fillet steak (along with Gary). The most striking thing was the presentation of the food which looked like something from Masterchef. That was until you tried it and the taste somehow eclipsed the appearance. Incredible dishes all round.
We couldn’t not have dessert – Rhian and Ailsa both had the truffles (several vegan choices) which were as delicious as the mains. We honestly couldn’t recommend it enough. Expecting a large bill (having had a few drinks to boot) we were pleasantly surprised when the bill came in at less than 40 Euros a head. Obviously on the expensive side but given what we were served you could have expected double the price. A wonderful culinary experience.
The next morning Rhian and I decided to have an early morning run which was borne more out of panic at the prospect of an upcoming duathlon than anything else. Anyway, we thought it would be a good chance to have a reckie of the nearby sights before reporting back to Gary and Ailsa at the hotel breakfast (to note, vegan options of hash browns, beans, fruit and bread from the buffet so pretty limited but better than most).
We got as far as the neighbouring Spinola Bay which is about a mile round the coast from St George’s Bay (and gives you some idea of the uphill struggle we face in the duathlon!). It was so lovely and picturesque that we decided to have a wander back over in the afternoon with the in-laws.
After a stroll around the harbour we stopped for a drink in Raffael Restaurant. We extended this to a lunch visit as we were enjoying sitting in the sun on the terrace and the food looked good. I had pizza and Gary had a salad, whilst Rhian and Ailsa had open sandwiches. Rhian did have to ask for hers to be made vegan by taking out cheese but the staff were happy to accommodate. The portions were large and the food was tasty. Good for a spot of lunch.
That afternoon we took the opportunity to sit in the sun by the pool and utilise the spa facilities. Suitably relaxed, we headed back over to Spinola bay for an evening meal at Badass Burgers. An entirely different, but no worse dining experience than the night before. We entered the building and eventually arrived at the seating terrace (located in a poly tunnel at the rear) after winding our way up several flights of stairs and across a bridge. The only thing more hipster than the interior was the extensive choice of craft beer which suited me down to the ground. On top of that one of the burgers was actually named “The Vegan” which is normally a good sign.
When the food arrived the portions were enormous (they seem to eat a lot in Malta). Duathlon prospects diminishing with every meal, we tucked in regardless. The food was fantastic and we even had a free beer due to the Thursday night promotion. Ideal. Prices were reasonable anyway and the bill came to less than 15 Euros a head. Ailsa even said it was the best burger she’s ever eaten, high praise indeed from the mother-in-law!
We went on a little road trip the next day which started with a breakfast pitstop at Naar in Balluta Bay (just around from Spinola). We had our breakfast whilst taking in the early morning practice of Neptune’s Water Polo Club. There were plenty of vegan options available (including chocolate cake!) but Rhian plumped for her usual avocado on toast which was fresh and tasty. They even did a soya milk hot chocolate.
Suitably full, we headed for our first stop which was Mosta. After unsuccessfully navigating the maze of roads around Valletta and doubling our journey time, we arrived and took in the marvellous Mosta dome. The building is modelled on the Pantheon in Rome and is suitably spectacular, although it was closed when we were there so we couldn’t go in to see inside the fourth largest free standing dome in Europe which was a little disappointing.
Next on the tour was the walled city of Mdina. What a place! The city stands on top of a hill and is rather imposing as you approach the high walls. After a wander around the narrow winding streets we took in the panoramic views from The Fork and Cork as we ate lunch. From my point of view the vista far exceeded the food as I had a fairly poor calzone. Rhian didn’t fare much better with her bread and chips. The fortress may be spectacular but it seems to have been as successful in keeping out vegan friendly restaurants as it has invading armies.
With time moving on we nipped back over to Valletta. We spent a good couple of hours perusing the shops and all agreed we could have spent a whole weekend there. On the way back to the car we called at the Upper Barrakka Gardens and took in the awe inspiring view over the bay. A must for any Valletta visit. We also took a ride in the 60m high lift which connects the port with the centre. Having taken the free trip to the bottom we realised there was a charge to come back up! Frugality reigned supreme as we decided to stay in the lift undetected and ride back up for free.
That evening we ate in Fluid Rib and Steak Grill House after having studied the menu to find a vegan pasta dish. The food was fairly reasonable but more geared towards meat eaters as you may expect. Probably wouldn’t go top of our list for vegans.
Later on, we made our way to the Scotsman pub on the way over to Spinola Bay to watch the rugby. As Wales were playing Ireland we decided we would feel a little outnumbered in The Dubliner! Probably a good choice as we gave them a bit of a pasting (22-9). If any Irish out there disagree please leave us a comment!
After breakfast at the hotel the next day, Rhian and myself decided to take road trip part 2 and visit some of the more remote parts of the island. The original plan was to take the ferry across to Gozo to see the Azure Window, however it collapsed the night before we arrived, rendering all guidebooks obsolete. There was a tangible feeling of sadness from the Maltese people over the event.
Anyway, instead we headed over to St Peter’s Pool which was an incredible sight. I’ve heard you can jump in from the rocks but the sea was rough so we gave it a miss. Probably wouldn’t recommend anyway!
After that we meandered around the stunning coastline, taking in the scenery and beautiful fishing villages before arriving at the Blue Grotto. We took this in from high on the cliffs but there are also various boat tours which take you into the caves. A fantastic sight from any angle and my tip to become the new poster boy of Malta after the sad demise of the Azure Window.
Returning to the hotel, we planned our restaurant choice for that evening and opted for Plage which was just down the hill from our hotel. We decided to give it a go despite the rather raucous birthday party that was going on in the front room. In fairness the staff couldn’t have done more to be accommodating. It helped that one of the waitresses was vegan so Rhian was given a very warm welcome. They even concocted some special dishes for her which was most appreciated. The food was good quality too and we all had a great dining experience.
Overall we had a fantastic time in Malta despite visiting a month or two early to get the best of the weather.
There certainly are some amazing sights such as Mdina, St Peter’s Pool and the Blue Grotto so it’s well worth hiring a car to explore more of the island. Valletta is a must visit as well.
We found some top class eateries and I’m sure we didn’t even scratch the surface. Main recommendations have to be Truffle and Truffles, Badass Burgers and Plage but take your pick from most of the above and you’ll do well.
